I have realized that I am somewhat limited on what I see when I travel. When you have been to a few third world countries you start to get used to the things the way they are. I have lost the wonder of the experience. Let me see if I can recapture some of it.
I was in a village of 2,000 people. Everything that they owned not including their furniture and livestock could fit in my 4 bedroom home. I mean everything for the whole village. All 5 motorcycles, all 15 refrigerators, all 20 televisions, all their clothes…which usually included two changes…one for good and one for work. They could have stacked all their dishes in my kitchen and fit their one pair of shoes and one pair of flip-flops in any bedroom.
Almost every kitchen was out in a corner of the courtyard with a lean-to roof over it. A round piece of cement to hold a pan or sheet of metal for a griddle and a place to put in the straw or branches that they burned. It takes time just to collect branches to use to cook. No silverware except for a soup spoon.
I live alone and have for 30 years. They could not understand how I could do that. “Who cooks”. “Who does your laundry.” It takes a long time to do this when you don’t have a stove, microwave and washer.
There are a couple of corner shops that sell the very basics in soap, salt, rice and candy. Maybe candles and some spices but no fresh produce. That is bought from a wagon coming through town. Your milk is from your water buffalo or goats. Meat is bought fresh daily, if you have meat that day. Flat bread is cooked daily and breakfast is the leftovers from the evening meal.
I had more clothes in my suitcase than most of them had in their home. What does that say about the things still at my home? They had to buy a foam mattress and bedding when I came because they did not have any extra. How much extra bedding do you have in your house? Look at your towels and sheets.
My medicine chest and cupboard have more medicines than their clinic that is in the near town. They have soap and water and a tooth brush and tooth paste for health care. That is it. Maybe some rags to wrap up an infected toe. Did I tell you that the donkey and horse carts have a piece of burlap suspended underneath to put the animal waste in? Partly to save for fertilizer and partly because of the immense problem of tetanus infections.
I saw many children with lazy eye or crossed eye. That is a problem that is solved in the US when a child is very young with just a patch, or sometimes surgery. Not there. Sugar diabetes is a major problem there. Lack of medications and ways to keep track of the problem mean loss of limbs and paralysis. Simple heart problems that here are taken care of with a stint or bypass are life threatening. If you live through birth you have a life expectancy of 63 years. One of the brothers had a baby die after living only 10 hours. Who knows what a neo-natal ward could have done.
The village I was in had 700 children and no school. To send a child to school in the town costs $2 a month for tuition and more for uniforms and books and $16 a month for transportation on a rickshaw (motorcycle on the front and box on the back for people.) When the average family makes $200 a month you only have enough to send the brightest boys and hope that it is passed on.
The children are bright and eager to learn but many are busy taking care of the animals and running errands for the family. I saw lots of kids playing in the dusty pathways but no toys. The ones that I saw in Sunday School were very well kept and I wondered how they could look so neat in those dusty conditions.
The family unit is extremely strong there. The compound I was in had the two older parents, three sons and their wives and 6 children and a niece. Each family had one room for parents and children. There were two toilets, two wash stands, a kitchen and a washing area. Everything is at ground level and you squat for everything, even in the toilet.
I was able to get into many homes in the evening. At dusk the family had usually taken the bed, (4 legs with ropes for a mattress.) into the house and were sitting on their respective beds talking or getting ready to sleep. When I came they cleared off the two nice chairs or overstuffed couch and invited me to come in. I removed my shoes and sat in the seat of honor. Tea was usually offered along with some snack or tidbit to eat. They were so happy to have the American visit.
At every school I was given the seat of honor in the principal’s office and given tea or a soda to drink with some cookies that the English call biscuits. Everyone wanted to shake my hand. (I found myself washing them whenever I had a chance.).Two schools and a church had a rose lei for me to wear and threw rose petals…no small expense for them. I was so well received. I could not carry my jacket or backpack…someone was always there to do it.
I saw one other Westerner from the time I left the airport until I returned and that was a nun that had been there for many years. It was a very isolated area with things like they were for centuries…except for a few cars and motorcycles and lots of cell phones. Cell phones have opened up people’s ability to communicate. My driver was on the phone more than he was off it. People in a compound with the water buffalo and goats…and a cell phone.
I did not see I-Pods or the like. Except for in the car, I did not hear radios. I did hear the Muslim call to worship 5 times a day coming at me from a number of different directions. Things did not seem to stop for prayer as I have seen in some places. Most activity seemed to go on anyway.
My last two days there I saw a lot of activity with the goats. They were painted with a red die splashed on their sides and being taken to town. In each town on the way to the airport there was an area where the goats were being offered for sale. It was for the Day of Atonement and they would be sacrificed and the meat given to the poor. Since Pakistan is 96% Muslim and the 6th most populous country in the world, there were lots of goats. I don’t know if other things were also offered, but I did see lots of goats.
I also saw camel carts. Other places I have seen camels loaded with things or ridden but not pulling a cart like there. They were fewer than the many donkey and oxen pulling carts. I did see a couple of people pulling carts but that is not the norm. They tie the donkey colt next to its mother so it learns how to work. They have a joke that even a donkey can train its child.
Every household had a fire, many business had fires for the men to stand around, brick kilns were burning and many fields or trash heaps. This along with the dust and motor exhaust made for a lot of pollution. I had some problems breathing and had to use my inhaler. I guess my ancestors from not too long ago squatted over a fire to cook and breathed in all that smoke.
Safety standards are not what they are here. You don’t step on a manhole cover because it might give way. Steps are of different heights and floors are not necessarily level. You learn to walk loosely, ready for a different footing. At night in the village I did use a flashlight. I also kept it where I knew I could find it because the electricity went out every day for a short…or longer time and it was handy to have it nearby.
Well, that is just a few of my thoughts on life in another culture. Not bad, just different.
Dave